Given that there is an obesity epidemic, you might expect that when one of the world’s leading science writers, Gary Taubes, addresses the subject — challenging thirty years of official dietary advice — it would get a lot of press coverage. That the book took five years full-time to write, and has a 60-page bibliography indicating that pretty much all nutritional science over the past 150 years has been examined, means that journalism owes a lot of attention to such a work. However, as Google is my witness, this still seems not to have happened. As far as I can tell, The Economist -- my news chamberlain — should also be ashamed of itself.

My own excuse for not reading it yet is that it’s a big book and I’m a notoriously slow reader. But I’m kicking myself too that I missed it when it came out, even though my favourite blogs made mention of it, and a pretty hot thinker gave it a nod at some website or other that sells books out in the long tail.

I will doubtless come back to the book in future, published as Good Calories, Bad Calories in the US last autumn, and earlier this year as The Diet Delusion: Challenging the Conventional Wisdom on Diet, Weight Loss and Disease in the UK. And I can’t wait to read it, now that the publisher has sent me a copy — that’s if I can wrest it from the Knackered Hackette’s grasp.

As an appetiser, there are two online video presentations Taubes has done around the book, one here given to the School of Public Health at Berkeley last autumn, the one below to the Stevens Institute for Technology. (They’re over an hour long, so if it rains at Wimbledon, you have something else to watch rather than Borg v McEnroe again.)

The presentations are an interesting example of journalistic method. But then, Taubes is unusual in his thoroughness. You could say that he approaches the job of journalist like a scientist, or by simply applying his scientific training. His subject matter — diet and public health — could not be more important. It also speaks for the importance of books, which have been getting a bit of a bashing by some online mavens recently, who, like so many of us, live their lives increasingly through the Googleprism. Elsewhere Taubes describes how long it takes to produce such a thoroughly researched work, but it is that thoroughness which reveals the power of looking back through the science, journalism and politics of a subject to see how an idea was born, and then cascaded into a conventional wisdom. Perhaps the following passage from an interview six months ago with blogging academic and self-experimenter Seth Roberts helps partially to explain what happens:-

Papers, and its still the case, for the most part, today, the people who got those jobs weren’t the shining intellects on the newspaper, and the shining intellects didn’t want to be diet and health writers. If you’re a whip-smart young guy or girl who wants to go into journalism, you want to be an investigative reporter, a political reporter, or a war correspondent; you don’t want to write about diet and health. Or at least you didn’t. So I think that was one of the problems….

  • …So now it’s 1977, the McGovern Committee and the USDA make these proclamations about what constitutes a healthy diet, and there’s simply no skepticism. (With the possible exception of Bill Broad writing in Science Magazine, which no one outside the field of science was reading.) So the government tells us that we should eat low-fat diets — and not even learned authorities in the government, but Congressman and USDA bureaucrats channeling 30-year-old congressional staffers — and lo and behold, all these health reporters decide it must be true. That’s the failure.

But I really liked Taubes’ self-indulgence, which seems fully justified in light of his own self-effacement:-

In my fantasy life, I get a call from the managing editors of the New York Times and the Washington Post and the Wall Street Journal and they say they’ve read my book and they want to know how they can improve their health and diet reporting. Because they can see, whether or not I’m 100% right, or 80%, or only 50%, surely their reporters did something wrong. Now there’s a fantasy for you!

I’d extend his fantasy and suggest there’s a lot that Taubes as a journalist could teach these august institutions and their readers. The difficult question these days is: will someone pay for it all?

The whole interview is worth a very close read because Taubes describes too how he approaches the process of science writing and, above all else, identifying bad science. He applies some simple heuristics to divine a bad scientist when those he is dealing with are notionally more qualified than he. For example, this is how he assessed one figure:-

There are all kinds of signs. He told me there was no controversy, when there was obviously a controversy. His side might have been right, but to deny there was a controversy was ludicrous. He talked about the legitimacy of throwing out negative data. You measure salt consumption one way; you don’t see any effect on blood pressure, and so you decide that’s obviously the wrong way to measure it. The implication of everything he told me was that he knew what the answer was before he did his experiments, and then he adjusted his experimental techniques and methodology until he got the answer that he wanted. And he believed this was legitimate science. There are other signs. I’m a stickler about the use of words like “evidence” and “proof”. So if someone tells you there’s no evidence for some controversial belief, you can be fairly confident that they’re a bad scientist. There’s always evidence, or there wouldn’t be a controversy. If somebody says that “we proved that this was true” or “we set out to prove that this was true” that’s another bad sign. The point here, as Popper noted, among others, is that you can never prove anything is true; you can only refute it. So researchers who talk about proving a hypothesis is true rather than testing it make me worried.

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6 Responses to “the diet delusion”  

  1. 1 Xanderman


    I am in the process of reading Good Calories, Bad Calories (American title) right now and it is wonderful. I'm a very slow reader and this book demands even slower reading because the science behind the current health and diet recommendations is explored in such great depth and wonderfully torn up apart, gently but effectively.

    I am about half way through the book and I think I enjoy each chapter more than the previous. I think it was the chapter on dementia and cancer that I was least interested in initially, but came to thoroughly enjoy it and learned some very interesting information.

    The video clip you posted is great. I saw it a few weeks ago and found it as riveting as the book. Taubes is an excellent presenter and is incredibly thorough.

    Good luck wresting it from the Knackered Hackette.


  2. 2 markus

    just saw your site – from Mark’s Apple
    i read Taube’s book four times so i could take it in properly
    he originally, i believe, wanted to expand on his “What if it;s all been a big fat lie” article for Time magazine – which got a lot more attention.
    i think he realised quickly that the establishment would not listen to a debunking exercise of the central cholesterol/saturated fat myth (the lipid hypothesis) – an argument on the negative simply evoke entrenchment. He also must have realised that we needed a context in which to view competing strands of theories to explain the observed data from the turn of the century (the diseases of civilisation) in order to understand how the establishment thinks. Taubes seems to have recognised that you need to present a positive avenue to explore after you’ve pulled the conceptual rug from under people’s feet. So he traced the history of the main alternative hypothesis – from saccharine disease to the carbohydrate hypothesis. This happens to cut at the heart of the cholesterol myth at the same time as providing a good basis for optimism in finding the answer to the basic conundrum – what is it the the Western diet that is making us ill?

    He also piles in all the solid evidence to easily demonstrate that the carbohydrate hypothesis explains the data much better than the lipid theory – mainly by concentrating on a key are – the question of what makes us fat?

    The reasons he discovers in his epic and very readable journey are key to understanding plausible scenarios for the causes of cancer, CVD, Alzheimer’s, obesity and diabetes.

    It’s worth the effort – and won’t be as onerous as you think

    all the best


  3. 3 knackeredhack


    Sometimes the Hackette reads it out loud, perhaps to annoy me, but I think to reveal how gripping and important a book it is.


    Some books are so good that they merit re-reading, and I think what you say speaks volumes, as it were. As an alternative, I’m dipping into James Le Fanu’s The Rise and Fall of Modern Medicine. It looks like there is an overlap in perspectives, although Le Fanu’s is not exclusively about diet. Both show the absolute value books continue to have in marshalling and presenting complex and critical information for a non-academic but motivated audience.


  4. 4 Methuselah

    For me the biggest challenge is explaining the concepts Taubes writes about it terms that can capture the interest of friends and relatives. The chances of getting them to watch one of these videos from start to finish is almost zero. Yet I can’t shake my desire to tell people that they should not be eating bread etc and of course am then called upon to justify the statement. So when I stumbled upon this 3-minute video it was the perfect solution!

    Sometimes a video is worth a thousand words…

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